We may not want to admit it, but winter is just around the corner. For an extra layer of protection add fuel stabilizer-conditioner to the last tank of fuel and run it thoroughly through your bike’s fuel system. Use a run a maximum storage marine-grade product. The winter months are extremely harsh on motorcycles that are left outdoors.
First, thoroughly clean and dry all surfaces of the bike. This step seems like an obvious one, but the importance of it cannot be emphasized enough. Cleaning a bike that won’t be on the road sounds like a thankless job, but it’s one that will save you time and headache in the long run. Any dried on bugs, dust, or spots will only become harder to get off once it’s been seasoned through a long winter.
I put my bike away for the winter about two months ago. Before storing and covering your bike, it’s vital to give it a thorough clean and – just as importantly – dry it off completely too. It’s also vital that you apply a spray-on, anti-corrosion protectant or dispersant such as WD40 or GT85 to all the exposed metal areas to combat any damp. Finally, you should remember to re-grease any moving parts such as cables or linkages that have been cleaned of their lubricant.
The oil in a motorcycle engine doesn’t move around while in storage, which can cause particles to separate and slowly rise to the surface. This process usually leads to carbon coating on the surface of your engine oil. Because it’s highly corrosive and can etch into metal within the system, make sure that your oil is clean before you place your bike in storage. When the spring season starts, change and filter the oil to remove any carbon deposits and to ensure a healthy engine.
The battery is always a good place to start after your motorcycle has been in storage for a while especially if you didn’t have a smart charger on it. Newer bikes, in particular, have a lot of electronics on them that won’t function properly if they don’t receive the correct voltage. The easiest way to check your battery is with a multimeter. You’ll want to make sure your battery is putting out at least as many volts as it’s rated for. If it isn’t making sure it’s fully charged. If it still isn’t giving a good voltage reading after a full charge it may be time for a new battery. Next check the battery terminals for corrosion and the battery cables for wear or exposed wiring. The batter case should also be inspected for cracks or deformations.
Unlike cars, motorcycles aren’t designed for long-term exposure to the elements. Even with a bike cover, condensation and moisture will quickly wreck exposed metal and even affect coated parts eventually – not to mention the problems this will cause braking and electrical systems. Neither will carport or under-deck storage do. You need to control (within reason) the temperature and, more importantly, the humidity where your bike is stored, and anywhere exposure to the elements makes this impossible. Cold air holds less moisture than warm air, so as temperature drops, moisture condenses. Metals attract moisture because they more easily conduct heat away, offering a colder surface for condensation. Air plus moisture plus ferrous metal – even some “stainless” steels – equals rust.
When you finish that, you can replace your headlight with led bulb, the halogen bulb is dimmer and around 25 dollars while a 9006 led bulb low beam is about 30 dollars, much brighter than a halogen one, and emit long-distance lighting. You can view in led car light website to get one kit.
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